Monday, March 5, 2012

Land's End and the Sutro Baths

This Sunday Grandma and Grandpa came out from the East Bay to spend the morning with us here in San Francisco.  The weather was simply beyond spectacular.  Nowhere should March fourth be as sunny, mild, gently breezy, and clear as it was yesterday, especially in San Francisco.  My expectations for the rest of the year have, I'm afraid, been ruined.

Following brunch, we took advantage of the clear skies, extending all the way to the coast for once, and made a trip out to Land's End.  Perched on the North-Western tip of the San Francisco peninsula, Land's End offers trails down to beaches, spectacular views of the ocean and the Golden Gate, military history, shaded seclusion, and even reasonable parking.

The view from the parking lot was pretty amazing, but it didn't quite satisfy Mimi. 
She insisted on heading down the massive, cliff-face stairway to the promenade below.  Naturally, she wanted to tackle the stairs herself.  Well, with a little hand-holding, to be sure, but nonetheless, relatively on her own.  It took several weeks, but we eventually made it down.  
Once on the promenade we hooked to the left and headed for the ruins of the Sutro Baths.  Mimi again insisted on making her own way. 
Our hard work was rewarded at the bottom with an amazing view of the inlet to the bay.  You can see the tip of the north tower of the Golden Gate in the distance if you squint. 
Still too short to take in the views on her own, Mimi got a boost from Grandma up to the rail's edge.  Mimi's quite adventurous for her age, but at least she still has a healthy respect for heights.  The sheer drop to the water below brought a little more caution to her exploration.
But once again on terra firma, Mimi wasted no time taking control of the outing.  Here she is determining our next point of interest. 
There's not much left of the Sutro Baths, just some concrete foundations that hint at the grandeur of the former indoor pool and bath house.  This was no rec pool or day spa.  When it opened in 1896, Sutro Baths was the world's largest indoor bathing facility. 
 Encased in glass, it must have been a remarkable sight. 
And the pools... they were so large that lifeguards used rowboats.  Swings and diving board abounded, making entry into the water far more risky, and more fun.  It would've been a swimmer's dream and an liability insurer's nightmare. 
Sadly, the Sutro Baths came to an end in the 1960s.  Closed and partially demolished, then completely razed by fire, it's remarkable just how little remains of what must have been a colossal structure.  Hiking back up from the ruins I was a little saddened that today I highly doubt we could ever build something so grand, so revolutionary, so unique.  At least the ruins are still there to inspire us.  And to wear out Mimi in preparation for a nice, long nap.

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